Saturday, October 22, 2005
Bergen-Belsen Concentration Camp
Today I visited the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp, a camp between the villages of Bergen and Belson about 3 hours from Osnabrück. I have been told about the holocaust my whole life, been to several museums/memorials in Israel, but nothing could possibly prepare me for the actual camp itself.
Even days before I was nervous about even going and even considered not going, but I knew it was something I had to do at least once. Everytime I thought about the camp, I'd look around Osnabrück and know that there used to be jews who walked down the street in the old city here, saw the same buildings we see today. They walked past the Lager Hall and down by Heger Tor. They looked up at the German kings and dukes sculpted on the city hall and walked on the typical european cobblestone streets.
Then they were in Bergen-Belsen.
This camp was somewhat untraditional in that it was meant for prisoners of war, and housed several thousand Soviet soldiers until the Nazis began to lose the war on both fronts and had to move Jews and others from concentration camps near the front lines further into the heart of Germany. This camp had no gas chambers like many of the more famous ones, but it didn't need them. The SS simply didn't feed the camp inhabitants enough for them to survive. One survivor said that the daily ration was a piece of bread only 3.5 centimeters large. That's less bread than they give you for free with a curry wurst in the city center.
We were shown a film before a tour taken by the British soldiers who liberated the camp. It was the most disturbing holocaust film I have ever seen by leaps and bounds. Many films show the emaciated bodies, but few go as far as this one to capture the horror of the camp. Bergen-Belson, in its final months and weeks, began to kill so many people through starvation and disease that they were not able to bury all the bodies. They simply piled up around the large camp. When the british got there, they saw mountains of starved, naked bodies. A few people greeted them, those who were still able to stand.
The SS were forced to bury the bodies and local towns people were forced to watch the guards bury bodies and bear witness to the atrocities at the camp. But the SS had killed so many people that it wasn't possible for them to bury all the bodies and British bulldozers had to be used to move the bodies into holes. The footage of the bulldozer is possibly the most disturbing in the entire film.
Today, there are no buildings from the camp left. The British destroyed them because they were so disease ridden- although they regretted it because there was then only pictures and memories of Bergen-Belson. Today there is a large Soviet cemetary with the remains of about 20,000 Soviet prisoners of war who died in the camp. Another 80,000 Jews and various other groups of people (gypsies, homosexuals, political prisoners) died in the camp.
As we walked into the camp, there is a small stone walkway around the entire field where the camp was. It was built where the fence used to be. The field was desolate save for a jewish monument depicting the 12 tribes of Israel and various graves. One grave of note is Anne Frank's, who is burried with her mother at Bergen-Belson.
On the left and the right of the pathway through the field are giant mounds with a dull brown bush covering it. Each one has a large stone slab reading "Hier ruhe 1,000 tote" (Here rest 1,000 dead). Some have 800, some have 2,500, some have an incredible 5,000 people.
The entire field is landscaped perfectly. The grass that grows is an ugly shade of brownish green and the plants are all a drab brownish color. There is not a single thing that is good looking in the entire field. But on the edges of the field lay the beautiful forest.
Stones dot the graves of various jews and gentiles alike. And what was very touching, despite the fact that it flaunts Jewish tradtion, were roses and other non-planted flowers on Jewish graves. While I like rocks better, this shows that there were non-jews who cared enough to put those there. And it's good to know that it isn't just the Jews who go and remember.
I took no pictures of the place. I didn't even bring my camera, because I know I won't need it, and my pictures won't have the impact that acutally going there has. The pictures do not
compare to the power of the actual place, the mass graves all around you.
Even worse than all of the mass graves was seeing the commander. His picture is in the small museum beside the field in a life size image. Knowing he was hanged along with many of the other SS here is little solace. He has a small scowl and an incredibly evil look in his eyes. His stare had a force to it, like he was never really able to leave the place, and that he will never be able to escape the wrongs he committed.
As we left, I stopped at the edge of the camp fence. I was stood there, looking out at the vast German forest in front of me. Countless people looked out at the same forest possibly even from the same spot, longing to get out, but never did.
In the guestbook for the camp, there was only one thing I could write:
"Am Yisrael Chai"
The people of Israel live.
Even days before I was nervous about even going and even considered not going, but I knew it was something I had to do at least once. Everytime I thought about the camp, I'd look around Osnabrück and know that there used to be jews who walked down the street in the old city here, saw the same buildings we see today. They walked past the Lager Hall and down by Heger Tor. They looked up at the German kings and dukes sculpted on the city hall and walked on the typical european cobblestone streets.
Then they were in Bergen-Belsen.
This camp was somewhat untraditional in that it was meant for prisoners of war, and housed several thousand Soviet soldiers until the Nazis began to lose the war on both fronts and had to move Jews and others from concentration camps near the front lines further into the heart of Germany. This camp had no gas chambers like many of the more famous ones, but it didn't need them. The SS simply didn't feed the camp inhabitants enough for them to survive. One survivor said that the daily ration was a piece of bread only 3.5 centimeters large. That's less bread than they give you for free with a curry wurst in the city center.
We were shown a film before a tour taken by the British soldiers who liberated the camp. It was the most disturbing holocaust film I have ever seen by leaps and bounds. Many films show the emaciated bodies, but few go as far as this one to capture the horror of the camp. Bergen-Belson, in its final months and weeks, began to kill so many people through starvation and disease that they were not able to bury all the bodies. They simply piled up around the large camp. When the british got there, they saw mountains of starved, naked bodies. A few people greeted them, those who were still able to stand.
The SS were forced to bury the bodies and local towns people were forced to watch the guards bury bodies and bear witness to the atrocities at the camp. But the SS had killed so many people that it wasn't possible for them to bury all the bodies and British bulldozers had to be used to move the bodies into holes. The footage of the bulldozer is possibly the most disturbing in the entire film.
Today, there are no buildings from the camp left. The British destroyed them because they were so disease ridden- although they regretted it because there was then only pictures and memories of Bergen-Belson. Today there is a large Soviet cemetary with the remains of about 20,000 Soviet prisoners of war who died in the camp. Another 80,000 Jews and various other groups of people (gypsies, homosexuals, political prisoners) died in the camp.
As we walked into the camp, there is a small stone walkway around the entire field where the camp was. It was built where the fence used to be. The field was desolate save for a jewish monument depicting the 12 tribes of Israel and various graves. One grave of note is Anne Frank's, who is burried with her mother at Bergen-Belson.
On the left and the right of the pathway through the field are giant mounds with a dull brown bush covering it. Each one has a large stone slab reading "Hier ruhe 1,000 tote" (Here rest 1,000 dead). Some have 800, some have 2,500, some have an incredible 5,000 people.
The entire field is landscaped perfectly. The grass that grows is an ugly shade of brownish green and the plants are all a drab brownish color. There is not a single thing that is good looking in the entire field. But on the edges of the field lay the beautiful forest.
Stones dot the graves of various jews and gentiles alike. And what was very touching, despite the fact that it flaunts Jewish tradtion, were roses and other non-planted flowers on Jewish graves. While I like rocks better, this shows that there were non-jews who cared enough to put those there. And it's good to know that it isn't just the Jews who go and remember.
I took no pictures of the place. I didn't even bring my camera, because I know I won't need it, and my pictures won't have the impact that acutally going there has. The pictures do not
compare to the power of the actual place, the mass graves all around you.
Even worse than all of the mass graves was seeing the commander. His picture is in the small museum beside the field in a life size image. Knowing he was hanged along with many of the other SS here is little solace. He has a small scowl and an incredibly evil look in his eyes. His stare had a force to it, like he was never really able to leave the place, and that he will never be able to escape the wrongs he committed.
As we left, I stopped at the edge of the camp fence. I was stood there, looking out at the vast German forest in front of me. Countless people looked out at the same forest possibly even from the same spot, longing to get out, but never did.
In the guestbook for the camp, there was only one thing I could write:
"Am Yisrael Chai"
The people of Israel live.
Comments:
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Exactly why I never, ever take pictures of Holocaust memorials and exhibits. I was so pissed off watching our friends taking pictures at Yad Vashem- it's just very disrespectful to the dead, particularly in this event. The Holocaust is not something to flaunt about. Not matter how beautiful the statues or the art are. What you see and how you interpret the camps, the memorials, and the museums is to be yours alone. No one can understand your feelings, specific reactions and thoughts. We are all unique in our remembrance as we stand before the dead.
# posted by 
: 5:06 AM CEST
: 5:06 AM CEST
Oh, and camera phones are the USHMM's newest struggle with the visitors. I actually told off several people who attempted to take pictures with their cellphones. I said, excuse me, I'm an intern at this museum and I prefer that you don't take photographs.
# posted by : 5:08 AM CEST
: 5:08 AM CEST
Yeah, I really don't understand how they are at all required. I'll admit to having some pictures from Yad Vashem, mainly because I didn't find most of it particularly moving. If you have to explain every piece of artwork and sculpture, then it isn't getting its message across effectively.
The camp, on the other hand was quite clear. 5000 dead here, 2,500 there. That's fairly clear, and much more moving than what I saw in Israel.
The camp, on the other hand was quite clear. 5000 dead here, 2,500 there. That's fairly clear, and much more moving than what I saw in Israel.
The Holocost makes me both sad and angry. I find it hard to understand that such cruelty could live inanyone's heart, and that the world let it happen.
I believe the more people who realize the horror of the Holocost and are moved by it, the better. So as far as I'm concerned let them take pictures and show their worlds, so long as they tell our story, and say, never again.
Your log is very moving. And, perhaps our best "revenge" is returning to Germany, like you, to show how we have thrived despite their efforts to annihilate us.
Finally, the lesson of the holocost, to me, is that it is important for every government to have a conscience. If there is none within its ranks, it must come from the public and the rest of the world.
Hugs...
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I believe the more people who realize the horror of the Holocost and are moved by it, the better. So as far as I'm concerned let them take pictures and show their worlds, so long as they tell our story, and say, never again.
Your log is very moving. And, perhaps our best "revenge" is returning to Germany, like you, to show how we have thrived despite their efforts to annihilate us.
Finally, the lesson of the holocost, to me, is that it is important for every government to have a conscience. If there is none within its ranks, it must come from the public and the rest of the world.
Hugs...
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